#DELCO VACUUM PUMP IN BIG CAM 350 MANUAL#

If your headlights need a constant high vacuum source to stay open, this pump and a res tank should do the trick. I intended to add a vac reservoir, but so far I haven't needed it. I know this doesn't directly answer your question about 1982 Corvette headlights, but if you have low engine vacuum due to a big cam, and all of your vacuum accessories are in proper working order, this pump should bring system vacuum up to necessary operating levels.

#DELCO VACUUM PUMP IN BIG CAM 350 MANUAL#

The pump is loud, so I added a manual cutoff switch for when I have the key on/motor off. I was skeptical at first that I would see such positive results, but it really serves it's purpose. Once I added this vacuum pump, the braking performance is now extremely competent, and this is without a vacuum tank. Even with the far superior clamping ability afforded by the Wilwood binders, braking was still insufficient.

In prep for the 2016 Hot Rod Power Tour, I installed Wilwood brakes all around, but kept my Corvette style MC and 8' dual diaphragm booster. I had Nova front/Caddy rear power disc brakes with low vacuum and scary braking for years. I plumbed it to augment, not replace my engine vacuum. I installed this pump on a 1967 Big Block Camaro with a very healthy cam that only manages about 10'hg.

Maybe somebody else can answer that.ДЇYI, the pump is doing the job for me- brakes are better than they've ever been. Marine Motor-Chev 350 5.7 LT V8 New Chev 350 96-09 Vortec Mercruiser style motor, comes with carburettor, exhausts and risers, alternator, gear reduction starter, flywheel, thermostat housing, pulleys, electronic distributor and leads, stainless steel water pump, marine head gaskets, roller cam, intake manifold, harmonic balancer, flame arrestor, Compression 8.5:1, 330hp 5000rpm 380lbs. I'm not sure if the interior lights dimming is normal. If your relay is located close to the pump, the draw should be minimal. Have you waited for awhile and re-checked vacuum to make sure the system is really holding it? Either you're losing vacuum and aren't aware of it, or the pump isn't sensing vacuum accurately, or the triggering threshold is incorrect. I'll hear it (barely) firing up while the car is running but only occasionally. The car often sits for 1-2 weeks or more between starts and the pump probably activates less than half of the time when I start up. My pump comes on as needed, which is not often. Unfortunately my pump is mounted in a location that makes it a huge hassle to access, so I can't inspect it to see where it could be adjusted- I don't recall seeing anything like that before I installed it. Also any ideas why the lights dim for a second? I cleaned the contacts and used 10 gauge wire to run the pump. Is this something with the regulator that can be adjusted or is this just how it normally operates? Seems odd it just keeps switching on and off even though it has plenty of vacuum. It also has been causing my interior lights to dim for a second every time the pump cuts on. I actually pulled more vacuum in the system via a hand pump up to about 24' and it still cycles on and off. So the vacuum gets up to about 20' and then shuts off and turns on about every 5 seconds. I wired it using a relay directly to the battery via the splice bus behind the battery. This thread hits home, because i had a friend that built a 350 very similar to this, sportsman II's, vic jr, 11-1 355, cam almost identical, converter almost identical, now he hates SBC's because he put that motor in a 4200 lb 2wd truck with a 3.Q: Is the pump supposed to constantly cycle on and off? I installed this on a '67 Pontiac 400 with a big cam to run my newly installed power brakes (really should have left them manual, but here we are). You have a pretty big head for a 350 thats not spun to 7000-7500, also IMO, big intake, big head, small compression, small converter, small gear, the first thing too big in a combo kills it, you can get away with alot with a nice gear, 411 or so, or a 4000 + converter, it makes all of this so much easier ,ДЈ50's were made famous by winding the snot out of 'em pulling 5.00 + gears with 4 speeds ( infinite stall clutch's do wonders for 'em ) so some where in this, your going to have to tilt the situation to eleviate this problem, usually 350's peak torque hits above 4500, that intake needs 4000 rpm to wake up About 1/8 to 1/4 turn more rich with the idle mixture screws than the most vacume, then your pump cam and shooter changes will be more predictable, IMO, it will make sure the system doesn't first have to overcome a lean idle

Delco vacuum pump in big cam 350